Module 2: Beyond Stanley - East Falkland

Highlights

• The world’s most accessible king penguin colony
• Wilderness fishing
• Battlefield Tours
• Birdwatching
• Golf
• Proximity to Mount Pleasant Airport and Stanley

East Falkland, the largest of all the islands in the archipelago, is home to more than 85% of the country's population and boasts the tallest mountain in the Islands (Mt Usborne, 705m), as well as the world’s most accessible king penguin colony – at Volunteer Point. Most points of interest are accessible by road, and for those on tight timelines a short flight is also available to selected locations using FIGAS.

Part of the appeal of the Falklands is the change in the natural environment and wildlife between locations. The destinations detailed here are merely a starting point for a Falklands' adventure and should not be regarded as an exhaustive list of all you can see and do. Information on accommodation for this area can be found in the Falkland Islands Accommodation Guide. More about the flora, fauna and types of activities at each destination can be found at www.falklandislands.com.

Some places make excellent day trips from Stanley, whilst a number of destinations offer accommodation and are well worth exploring for a longer period of time. Most points of interest are accesible by road, and for those on tight timelines a short flight is also available to selected locations with the Falkland Islands Government Air Service (FIGAS). Some additional day-trips are offered exclusively to cruise ship passengers as special tours - details can be found in the cruise ship excursions section of the FITB website.

Volunteer Point, 3 hours from Stanley (November – March)
Volunteer Point is one of the most popular and important tourist destinations in the Falklands. The site is a cornucopia of bird activity, home to king, gentoo and Magellanic penguins – as well as waterfowl and endemic subspecies like the dark-faced ground tyrant, Falkland pipit and thrush. In 2006/07, Falklands Conservation counted approximately 750 adult king penguins and 550 chicks, making Volunteer Point the largest, most accessible king penguin colony in the world outside of South Georgia.

Volunteer Beach itself is a beautiful white sandy beach, approximately 2km long, and is where many of the penguins can be seen entering and leaving the ocean. Magellanic penguin burrows line the shore; visitors need to tread with care to avoid the unintentional collapse of the homes of these birds. During the summer a warden resides on-site to ensure that tourists abide by the Countryside Code and do not interfere with sensitive breeding birds like the King Penguins.

Land owner: Johnson's Harbour Farm - Osmund & Olive Smith
Ph +500 31399 or +500 21687
Access: By road and off-road track, standard road access to Johnson's Harbour, then 4WD required to reach the point. 

Visitors are strongly recommended to hire a guide unless travelling in convoy with experienced off-road drivers. The track has a succession of gates and un-marked paddocks;it is often very boggy requiring great driving skill and local knowledge and the journey may take several hours if conditions are poor. The track is usually closed between April and November to preserve its condition.

Accommodation: Camping available on-site, homestay with site wardens (contact the Smiths for permission and further details for both), Stanley operators

Bertha’s Beach, 1 hour from Stanley
Named after the Norwegian iron barque that wrecked at the site in 1892, Bertha’s Beach is a gentle 10-minute drive from Mount Pleasant Military Complex. Open to the general public with permission, the area is popular with locals and military day-trippers and features a beautiful white sand beach with abundant bird and marine life. The site also offers plenty of opportunity for hiking, photography and picnicking. Dolphins are a regular feature at the beach, often coming close to shore as they hunt in the shallows. Access to the beach is via a locked gate, details of where to secure a key are outlined below.

Access: Private land, permission required. Suitable for 4WD vehicles (self drive or hire a guide ). Visitors and residents can secure a key from the Fitzroy Farm Manager, military personnel can obtain a key from the Joint Education Centre inside MPA (+500 76205).
Accommodation: Darwin House (lodge), Goose Green, (self catering), Walker Creek (self catering) Kingsford Valley Farm (self catering), Stanley operators

Bull Point, 4.5 hours from Stanley
Based at the extreme south of East Falkland, Bull Point is an isolated, photogenic location offering access to gentoo and Magellanic penguins, sea lions, and many native plants and flowers. The site is low-lying, and the land immediately around the point was recently cleared of farm stock - leading to an improvement in the diversity of flora. Reaching the site is a challenging 4WD trek, but visitors are rewarded with wonderful views over an extensive sand dunes system and the coast. A series of permanent and seasonal pools are popular with bird watchers, as they provide valuable habitat for waterfowl and wading birds.

Maritime enthusiasts will also enjoy examining the hulk of the Craigielea, a large 3-masted barque that was wrecked on the western point in 1879. Bull Point is a large site with many points of interest for visitors, making an excellent full-day trip. Longer stays can also be enjoyed utilising self-catering accommodation found at various points across North Arm Farm. Bull Point also makes a good camping base.

Land owner: Falklands Landholdings Corporation - North Arm Farm
Ph +500 32080
Access: By road and off-road track, standard road access to North Arm then 4WD. Visitors are strongly recommended to hire a guide unless travelling in convoy with experienced off-road drivers.
Accommodation: North Arm Farm accommodation (p. +500 32080), Darwin House (lodge)

Cape Bougainville, 2 hours from Stanley
Summer Only, Guided tours only (no self-drive)

Resting on the north coast of East Falkland, Cape Bougainville is a picturesque site featuring rockhopper penguins, sea lions and southern giant petrels. The Cape was named after French navigator Louis Antoine de Bougainville - founder of the French settlement at Port Louis in 1764. Cape Bougainville is part of Gibraltar Station, a 52,000 acre sheep property farmed by the Pitaluga family for five generations. Its gaucho heritage can be glimpsed through the turf and stone corrals that were built by members of the Pitaluga family during the 1800s, some of which are still in use today. Overnight camping visits by special arrangement.

Land owner: Pitaluga Family - contact Nick and Annie Pitaluga
Ph +500 31193 or fax +500 31194
Access: By road and off-road track but only with a tour guide during summer months. Overnight camping visits by special arrangement.
Accommodation: Camping available on-site, Stanley operators, Elephant Beach Farm self catering

Cape Dolphin, 2.5 hours from Stanley (Guided tours recommended)

Jutting in to the South Atlantic at the northern tip of East Falkland, Cape Dolphin was named after HMS Dolphin, the vessel used by Commander John Byron when he took possession of the Falklands for the English at Port Egmont in 1765.

Today this beautiful location is a private farm where visitors are welcome to enjoy the beaches and abundant wildlife, including three species of penguin, storm petrels, sea lions, the occasional whale and large numbers of ducks and birds on Swan Pond. For the more adventurous there are excellent hiking opportunities and the chance to explore caves above the waterline. Visitors should set aside a full day to make the most of this diverse site.

Land owner: Philip Miller
Ph +500 41015 or e-mail. capedolpin@horizon.co.fk)
Access: By road and off-road track, standard road access to the farm then 4WD. Visitors are strongly recommended to hire a guide unless travelling in convoy with experienced off-road drivers.
Accommodation: Camping available on-site (contact Philip Miller for details), Race Point Farm, Elephant Beach Farm self catering Ph +500 41020, Kingsford Valley Farm self catering Ph +500 32233, Stanley operators

Darwin & Goose Green, 2 hours from Stanley (35 minutes from MPA)

Darwin

Darwin is situated on a narrow bridge of land linking upper and lower East Falkland. Lafonia rests to the south and Wickham Heights and the Onion Range to the North. Historic Darwin settlement retains much evidence of the 1982 Conflict, with many points of interest for those interested in military history. The Argentine Cemetery is situated 10 minutes drive from the settlement, with several other important memorials also located nearby including a small monument at the spot where Col. H. Jones fell during the battle for Goose Green.

The settlement was named after naturalist Charles Darwin who visited in the late 1830s, and is an excellent place to view remnants of the gaucho era - with a restored stone corral and living quarters from the late 1800s accessible by foot from the settlement.

This is also a great jump-off point for exploring the plains of Lafonia or the hills to the north which include the Islands' highest peak, Mount Usborne. For those that prefer more relaxing, indoor activities, craft workshops are also offered in the settlement.

Darwin House provides a pleasant base from which visitors can explore the area, offering overnight accommodation with full board, as well as casual meals, 'smoko' and guided tours. Visitors will find Darwin a convenient alternative to Stanley due to its proximity to Mount Pleasant International Airport and central access to all areas on East Falkland.

Land owner: Falklands Landholdings – Goose Green Farm
Ph +500 32270 or E-mail goose.green@horizon.co.fk)
Access: By road, FIGAS
Accommodation: Darwin House Ph +500 3131, Goose Green self catering Ph +500 32228, Stanley operators

Goose Green & Bodie Creek Bridge

A few miles from Darwin, Goose Green was established as a major sheep handling operation in 1922 and is still home to the largest shearing shed in the Falklands. The site is of great historic interest and is easily visited as a daytrip from Stanley or nearby Darwin. The settlement was made famous by the 1982 Conflict, when 114 Falkland Islanders were held captive in the Community Hall by the invading Argentine force. All captives were liberated by the Second Parachute Regiment on the 29th May 1982 in what was to become the first major land battle of the Conflict.

Maritime enthusiasts will be interested in the story of the Vicar of Bray, one of the last ships to participate in the California Gold Rush. The remains of this ship are situated at Goose Green jetty, amongst which a few brave cormorants and night herons still take shelter.

Also of interest is the world’s most southerly suspension bridge at Bodie Creek, just 20 minutes drive off-road from the Goose Green settlement. Built in 1924-25, Bodie Creek Bridge spans 122 metres of water and was erected to reduce the time taken to drive sheep from the southern parts of Lafonia to the shearing sheds at Goose Green. The bridge is now an aging construction; walking or driving on the bridge are not permitted. This is also a great jump-off point for exploring the plains of Lafonia or the hills to the north which include the Islands' highest peak, Mount Usborne.

Goose Green has an excellent cafe serving good value hot meals and home-made cakes. Self catering accommodation is available. 

Land owner: Falklands Landholdings – Goose Green Farm
Ph +500 32270 or E-mail goose.green@horizon.co.fk
Access: By road, FIGAS
Accommodation: Darwin House Ph +500 31313, Goose Green self catering Ph +500 32228, Stanley operators

Elephant Beach Farm, 1.5 hours from Stanley
Neighboured by Cape Dolphin, Elephant Beach Farm extends from Port San Carlos Road all the way to the rugged north coast. Driving from the farmhouse across undulating grassland towards the coast, visitors will reach the gentoo colony overlooking a spectacular tidal lagoon. At the mouth of the lagoon visitors can sit and relax on the grassy banks, littered with large numbers of whale bones in excellent condition. This area has been fenced off to protect an extensive tussac restoration site, an ongoing project undertaken with the assistance of Falklands Conservation and local volunteers. The western side of the lagoon provides excellent sheltered camping and great opportunities for relaxed fishing and cliff-top bird watching.

Along the coast towards the eastern boundary visitors can drive and then walk along a succession of beaches, finding gentoo and Magellanic penguins and the rare Falklands pebble if you're lucky! Those staying on the property can cater for themselves - or ask Ben to prepare a traditional Falkland meal using meat and produce from the farm.

Land owner: Ben Berntsen
Ph +500 41020 or E-mail benebf@horizon.co.fk
Access: By road. Off-road to reach the coast. Hire a guide or enjoy a tour offered by the farm.
Elephant Beach Farm self catering Ph +500 41020, Race Point Farm Ph +500 41012

Kelp Point / Pleasant Roads Beach, 2 hours from Stanley
Lying approximately 1.5 hours off-road (from the Island Harbour House turn off), Kelp Point is one of the most diverse flora and fauna sites in the Falklands, offering access to 30+ bird species, southern elephant seals, gentoo and Magellanic penguins. Queen of Falklands Fritillary butterfly can be spotted on patches of Falkland Lavender, whilst Vanilla Daisies, Scurvy Grass, Fachine, and Christmas Bush are found right across the region. At nearby Pleasant Roads beach, visitors can fossick among whale bones and shells, or undertake some serious bird watching. Westward around the coast lies Whale Point where the wreck of the Saint Mary now rests – she was a 1,940 tonne vessel wrecked in August 1891 during her maiden voyage.

Land owner: Falklands Landholdings Corporation – Fitzroy Farm Manager
Ph +500 32384
Access: By road and off-road track, standard road access to Island Harbour House. Visitors are strongly recommended to hire a guide.
Accommodation: Stanley operators 

Long Island Farm, 50 minutes from Stanley 

Situated 20 miles from Stanley as the crow flies, Long Island farm is a popular destination for cruise passengers and day trippers alike.

6th generation Falkland Islanders Neil and Glenda Watson continue to farm their 22,000 acre property in traditional Falkland style, using locally bred dogs and horses to gather their sheep from as far afield as Mount Longdon near Stanley. Peat is still the preferred fuel for cooking and heating, and the farm produces its own milk, bread, butter and cream.

Excellent half or full-day tours can be had along the shores of Berkeley Sound, with rockhopper, gentoo and Magellanic penguins accessible along the way. Dolphins and whales are also regular visitors to this sheltered stretch of water.

Land owner: Neil and Glenda Watson
Ph +500 31117
Access: By road
Accommodation: Stanley operators, Elephant Beach Farm(self catering) , Kingsford Valley Farm (self catering), Race Point Farm (various options)

Mount Usborne / Ceritos Corral, 1.5 hours from Stanley

Forming the western edge of Wickham Heights, Mt Usborne reaches 705m (2,312ft) - making it the highest mountain in the Falklands. Usborne has a distinctive hulking shape, and rises impressively from the grasslands at its feet. Just under the peak hangs Black Tarn, a small lake formed by erosive forces during the last Ice Age approximately 15,000 years ago - a fantastic location for camping enthusiasts.

At the base of Usborne is Ceritos Corral, a large and well-preserved stone corral built in 1871 by a team of several men for the princely sum of approximately £7. The structure is comprised of approximately 55 yards of stone work and is located next to a running stream. Ceritos is a well protected corral incorporating the nearby rocky hillside. It was used to sort the fattest and best cattle from the resident herd, these animals would then be sent to Stanley for consumption by townsfolk.

Allow a whole day for an expedition to Usborne. Visitors should wear walking boots, wind/waterproof clothing and headgear as the terrain is rough underfoot and the weather highly changeable. Water and snacks are essential. Maps and a GPS for route-finding are strongly recommended; mists can descend very quickly and finding the exact location of a vehicle can be challenging even in the best of weather.

Suggested route: Walk or drive to Ceritos corral. From here, walking is recommended, follow the fence line up the slope until you reach the Phantom crash site – a British fighter jet that came to grief on the slope during a routine flight in October 1983. Continue along the saddle past three rock tarns towards the summit cairn, enjoying the expansive views over Cape Dolphin and Berkeley Sound (the points of Point Stephens, North Arm and Port Howard Mountains are also visible on clear days). To see Black Tarn, head approximately 600 metres to the north of the summit cairn.

Land owner: Falklands Landholdings – Goose Green Farm
Ph +500 32270 or E-mail goose.green@horizon.co.fk
Access: By road and off-road track. Various routes exist to the summit by vehicle or on foot. Travel with a local guide or see notes above.
Accommodation: Camping possible on-site, Darwin House Ph 31313, Goose Green self catering Ph 32228, Kingsford Valley Farm self catering Ph 32233, Stanley operators

North Arm Settlement and Farm, 3 hours from Stanley

North Arm is situated in the open grasslands of Lafonia, set at the southern end of East Falklands and the head of the Bay of Harbours. The region is renowned for epic landscapes, varied wildlife, and excellent opportunities for walking and photography.

A range of self catering accommodation is available within North Arm settlement and at selected sites across the property, providing access to isolated wildlife hotspots like Bull Point and Fanny Cove.

Land owner: Falklands Landholdings Corporation - North Arm Farm
Ph +500 32080)
Access: By road, FIGAS
Accommodation: North Arm Farm self catering Ph +500 32080, Darwin House (full board/half board/B&B) Ph +500 3131, Goose Green self catering Ph +500 32228

Port San Carlos, under 2 hours from Stanley

Formerly known as San Carlos North, Port San Carlos settlement is tucked inside an enclosed bay with large working jetty and shearing sheds. The site was named after a Spanish sloop called the San Carlos, which visited in May 1768, but was eventually renamed to avoid confusion with San Carlos (south) during the First World War. There are two farms, Racepoint and Smylies. Race Point Farm operates both comfortable full board and self-catering accommodation with guided 4WD tours, quad bike hire and horse riding activities. It is an excellent base for exploration of the nearby coastline and the rest of upper East Falklands.

Guests can choose to hike or drive (if experienced) to nearby rockhopper and gentoo colonies at Fanning Head and Rookery Sands beach. A return hike to Fanning Head will involve approximately 6 hours of moderate walking. Paloma Beach is a beautiful stretch of white sand around 1 mile in length with a variety of wildlife including a few king penguins. The Picos mountains offer good hiking and interesting rock formations.

The neighbouring farms of Cape Dolphin and Elephant Beach also offer excellent wildlife, whilst San Carlos, Darwin, and Goose Green are readily accessible via the newly opened road which crosses the San Carlos River.

Land owners: Race Point Farm - John & Michelle Jones 
Ph +500 41012 or E-mail jhjones@horizon.co.fks; Smylies Farm - Cantray Ltd. Ph +500 22690
Access: By road, FIGAS
Accommodation: Race Point Farm (various options), Kingsford Valley Farm (self catering)

San Carlos, under 2 hours from Stanley

San Carlos was the site of the British landing in 1982; today the British cemetery overlooks Bomb Alley, the area in which a number of British ships were bombarded. A small museum houses relics from the conflict and other items of historical interest, alongside a display by Falklands Conservation. Ajax Bay, the area used as a field hospital in 1982, is situated nearby. There are good opportunities for hiking, wildlife viewing and fishing in the surrounding area.

There are a number of farms in the area. Kingsford Valley Farm offers fully-appointed self catering accommodation year round in the settlement and is a relaxing base from which visitors can explore East Falkland at leisure. Delicious home-cooked meals can also be provided and a variety of tours are available - to nearby wildlife colonies and the mountains, as well as giving a personalised, detailed look at the history of the area. Excellent guided trout fishing on nearby San Carlos River can also be arranged.

Land owner: Various - contact the Falkland Islands Tourist Board for details or, if staying at Kingsford Valley Farm, Terence & Sheila McPhee Ph +500 32233 or E-mail kvf@horizon.co.fk)
Access: By road, FIGAS
Accommodation: Kingsford Valley Farm (self catering), Race Point Farm (various options)

Sparrow Cove was named after the British ketch HMS Sparrow, which was stationed in the Islands between 1839 and 1843. Part of Murrell Farm, Sparrow Cove features a photogenic beach set against the jagged peaks of Mount Lowe.

Land-based tourists can experience this diverse destination by guided 4WD tour from Stanley or even MPA using Kidney Cove Safari Tours. Half and full day tours are available, visitors should take their own beverages and snacks. Depending on the season, it is possible to see up to five species of penguin during the course of the tour (king, Magellanic, gentoo, rockhopper, and macaroni). Fishing trips can also be arranged.

Land owner: Murrell Farm/Kidney Cove Safari Tours - Adrian & Lisa Lowe
Ph +500 31001 or E-mail allowe@horizon.co.fk
Access: Only by guided 4WD tour using Kidney Cove Safari Tours
Accommodation: Stanley operators